Introduction to Wildlife Photography Tools
Joe Kegley | E-Mail | Updated 06-16-09
The following list contains some common equipment nature photographers might keep in in their assembly. The list was derived from photography tools I personally use when capturing and processing wildlife images for Wildlife South. This is not to imply they are the best tools for the trade, but they work for me. Some of these tools may not be necessary for you or you may require additional or other equipment.
- Digital SLR Camera
While there are many manufacturers that make digital slr cameras, there are only two major players in this arena; Canon and Nikon.
Be aware that the lens mount on the cameras from these two vendors are different. Lenses for one will not fit on the other.
With that said, once you invest in a camera and lenses from one of those two companies, you are somewhat locked in to that manufacturer (unless you have an endless supply of money).
I selected Canon and currently use two older models; a Canon 20D and an Canon 1D Mark II N. Neither is manufactured any more.
Current Canon digital slr cameras can be divided into 3 categories; entry-level digital slr cameras (Rebel Series), prosumer digital slr cameras ( EOS 40D, EOS 50D, EOS 5D and EOS 5d Mark II), and their professional digital slr cameras (EOS 1D Mark III and EOS 1Ds Mark III). Prices for the current cameras from Canon range from $500 to $8000 depending on the camera.
Price will obviously have a part in your decision making should you be in the market. If you can afford it, I suggest a camera that has 'spot metering' and good low-light performance.
If you are in the market for a digital slr camera I suggest you try the following link for user reviews of cameras and lenses; http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/.
- Lenses
Out of my assortment of telephoto lenses, these three get used the most often and offer a good range among the set. All are fixed length as opposed to zoom. I find the image quality better on fixed length lenses, less moving parts, though you lose the ability to frame your subject easily. Framing with fixed length lenses requires you to move 'closer to' or 'further from' your subject as opposed to using the zoom ring on a telephoto zoom. I kind of like the added challenge of using fixed length lenses and I really like the quality I receive from them. Should you be on strict budget a better choice initially might be a quality zoom such as the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS.
- Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS - This is the longest lens I take when I kayak. Because I am unable to use a tripod while kayaking having image stabilization is a must. All the photos in the Silver River section under 'Field Work' were taken hand holding the camera with this lens. I also use this lens when hiking and scouting wildlife. The lens weighs about 2.6 lbs. Total weight attached to the Canon 1D Mark II N is a little over 5 lbs.
- Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS - This is the heaviest and longest lens I use. On a full frame camera the magnification is about 10x. On my Canon 1D Mark II N (1.3 crop factor) the magnification is about 13x. This lens weighs 8.5 lbs, with the Canon 1D Mark II N total weight is over 11 lbs without tripod. This lens must be used on a tripod, at least personally I have had no success hand holding it. The furthest I can hike with this lens, camera, and a tripod, is about 5 miles. That is 2.5 miles to the location, shooting (and resting), and 2.5 miles back, all on flat terrain. I doubt I could hike a mile with this lens on mountainous terrain. While I am unable to use this lens in a kayak, I am able to use it mounted on a tripod in a canoe and did so recently in the Okefenokee. It worked out very nicely. I suggest having some added weight in the canoe, such as camping equipment, to stabilize the craft should you decide to use this lens in such a fashion. This lens also works well through the window opening of a vehicle when used with the 'Molar Bean Bag'. My decision on purchasing this lens versus the 400mm f/2.8 or 600mm f/4 was based solely on weight. The latter two weigh almost 12 lbs each.
- Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro This lens is a good value. The lens was made for macro photography, but it does just as good with portraits. Basically you get two types of lenses for the price of one. Because of the wider aperture it does well in low light, note that it does not have image stabilization.
In addition to the above lens that I regularly use, I also sometimes use a 1.4x extender, but only when the camera and lens is mounted on a tripod. While I have the 2.0x extender, the few times I have used it I found the image quality suffered so it is rarely taken out.
- Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS - This is the longest lens I take when I kayak. Because I am unable to use a tripod while kayaking having image stabilization is a must. All the photos in the Silver River section under 'Field Work' were taken hand holding the camera with this lens. I also use this lens when hiking and scouting wildlife. The lens weighs about 2.6 lbs. Total weight attached to the Canon 1D Mark II N is a little over 5 lbs.
- Tripods
The three tripods I use are the Bogen/Manfrotto 3021B, Gitzo G1327, and the Gitzo 1128. The Gitzo G1327 has been discontinued and possibly the Gitzo 1128 also.
The tripod I use the most is the cheapest of the three, the 3021. The 3021 is no longer manufactured. I find the flip lock legs on the 3021 easier to handle in the field as opposed to Gitzo's twist lock legs. The Bogen/Manfrotto 3021B is not as solid or stiff as the Gitzo G1327. The carbon-fiber Gitzo G1327 has a load limit of 26.5 lbs, while the aluminum 3021 only has a load limit of 13.3 lbs. A Wimberly Head and the Canon 500mm f/4 is right at, or slightly above, the load limit for the Bogen/Manfrotto 3021B. The slightest wind will make this combination shake, still I use it frequently this way. If wind becomes a problem I get out the Gitzo G1327, though moderate wind is going to shake any tripod. The Gitzo G1327 is the better tripod, but I prefer the flip lock legs on the cheaper Bogen/Manfrotto 3021B, so I use it more often.
The Gitzo 1128 is a small portable carbon-fiber tripod which I sometimes use when hiking. It folds up to about 18.5 inches and can be carried in one of my backpacks. It has a maximum height of only 55 inches (with the center column extended). Maximum recommended load weight is 9.9 lbs.
- Tripod Heads
For all lenses, with the exception of the Canon 500mm f/4 IS, I use a Gitzo Ballhead. The current model I have is no longer manufactured. When it is time to get another I will probably purchase a Arca-Swiss Monoball or Kirk BH-1 Ballhead.
I use a Wimberly tripod head for the Cannon 500mm f/4 IS. I highly recommend a Wimberly head for heavy telephoto lens such as the 400mm f/2.8, 500mm f/4, and 600mm f/4. It takes very little effort to move and position a heavy lens and camera when properly mounted on a Wimberly tripod head. Except for extremely high or low angles, the camera and lens typically stay in position when you release your hold. This tripod head is great for use in a large stable canoe, with none of the flop over danger you would expect from a ballhead.
I use Wimberly quick release clamps on both my Gitzo ballhead and Wimberly tripod head (comes with one). In addition I have Wimberly lens plates on my longer telephoto lens and a Wimberly camera plate is attached to my camera. This allows all the pieces to fit together quickly.
- Car Mount (Molar Bean Bag)
I researched a lot of hardware for a camera/lens car mount and found the 'Molar Bean Bag' the best bet for the money. Plus you don't have to attach any hardware to your vehicle. Think of a molar tooth, with the 'roots' of the bean bag wrapping around both sides of the car door or window. You rest your lens with camera attached on top of the 'tooth'. The wild turkey shots in the Smokey Mountains section under 'Field Work' were taken using this device, as were some of the deer.
- Remote Shutter Release
I try to use a remote shutter release whenever possible. This eliminates any jerking motion from poor technique when tripping the shutter on the camera. I use the Canon RS-80N3 Remote Switch .
- Spare Battery(ies)
That last thing you want is to be out in the field and your battery run out of juice or fail. I have tried using third party batteries with mixed success. About half have lost their ability to hold a charge, while the original battery from Canon is still going strong. The next time I purchase a battery it will be from the manufacturer, Canon in my case.
- Compact Flash/SD Memory Cards
There are many brands of compact flash and SD memory cards on the market. For all I know they are probably of the same quality. I usually try to stick to SanDisk and Lexar, high speed, 2 GB capacity. While they make 4 and 8 GB cards, I try not to keep all my eggs (photos) in one basket in the event of a card failure. I have yet to have a card fail.
- Eclipse Optic Lens Cleaning Solution / Pec-Pad Photo Wipes
After trying various combinations of lens cloth and solutions, I found Eclipse Optic Lens Cleaning Solution and Pec-Pad Photo Wipes best fit my needs.
- Post Processing software
Last, but not least, you are going to need to be able to post process your images. Post processing includes, but is not limited to, exposure adjustments, white balance adjustments, noise reduction, sharpening, and cropping.
Some popular image processing software include; Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop Elements, and Apple's Aperture software.
Photoshop is Adobe's premiere bitmap editing software. Superb for graphics design work, including editing images taken from a camera, but may be a bit of overkill for someone only interested in photography post processing.
Adobe Lightroom is designed specifically for photographers. In addition to providing a means of editing individual images, Lightroom also provides a library module which allows one to catalog and assemble like groupings of images. Also included is a module for printing, one for slideshows, and another for creating web galleries.
Adobe Photoshop Elements is a scaled down version of the full photoshop. This is the least inexpensive software mentioned for post processing and will do most of the necessary tasks for editing image files.
Apple's Aperture is specific to computers with Apple operating systems. Like Adobe Lightroom, Aperture allows one to catalog and enhance photos.
Adobe Photoshop has a steep learning curve and a hefty price.
Those interested in just photography (as opposed to graphics design or web site development) will be very happy with Adobe Lightroom 2. If you are just starting out in your digital photography journey or on a strict budget then Adobe Photoshop Elements might be a better choice. Photoshop Elements cost about 1/5 the price of the full version of Adobe Photoshop and can do most of the typical post processing a photographer would want.